Saraguro - Going Back in Time

After busing for 2 hours north from Vilcabamba throgh beautiful green hills/mountains, I arrived in Saraguro, an indigenous cattle ranching town of 4000 population. Instead of "yellow cabs", there were pickup trucks lined up and loading up people from the bus. Before I knew it, someone tossed my carryon suitcase in a pickup and off I was delivered to a little hotel that I selected from the tour book (one of 3 in town)

I was awakened by the crowing of roosters and the mooing of black /white speckled cows. Outside the "Hostal Seman Wasi" I ventured along the quiet country, cobble stoned, mud puddled streets. No other tourists were to be seen. The local people were dressed in their native clothes. Men and women wore white or black felt hats. Men sported a long black ponytail, black poncho and black knickers. Short and squat women wored heavy pleated black skirts, black shawls fastened with ancester hand me down pins. They seemed to walk with pride, even if they wore mucky black rubber boots.

Although everyone greeted me with smiles and "buenos dias", it felt strange to be the outsider in a city not set up for tourists.
I meandered around town, entered a market where little juice stands were popular and watched them whip up fresh juices with quail eggs -perhaps not so clean shells and all.

I ate breakfast in one place open called "Mama Cuchara", a non-profit association to help indigenous women with loans and education. Instead of menus, you speak your best Spanish and hope to get what you ordered.

For a small town, their central park was the most manicured, flowered in all of Ecuador, much like my father would have enjoyed. Older women sat in the park, busy spinning wool yarn into balls and were humming. They were clearly happy, chatted with each other, producing warm scarfs and sweaters. I was able to sneak one photo, trying not to be the obvious ugly tourist. I also tried not to look blonde......but failed....and did not blend in.
Although I enjoyed the experience of immersion, and sometimes this is the best part, I found myself on the 11:15am bus heading north to a larger city.