A Day Trip with Mama Kinua in the Andes

Leaving chaotic, Cuenca, over gutted muddy roads, two American university students and myself were well received at a primitive, indigenous ¨Tarqui¨ home in the Andes highlands.

The elevation was near 10,000 ft, cold and damp, however with a spectactular view. The puffed up clouds were low enough to walk through...or was it just that we were high into the clouds? Upon arrival, the family served us hot sugar cane alcoholic drinks, we were told to keep us warm, which made perfect sense to me. Inside the smokey kitchen, the mujeres (women) were busy preparing our lunch, which highlighted the Ecuadorian specialty, "cuy" which
rhymes with "Roy". Cuy is their guiney pig,
with little beady eyes, usually served whole, with little
pointed ears and sharp claws.


Medicinal plants were proudly pointed out to us by Mama and we were given an explanation of their uses.



After some walking on the hill in the cow pasture, of course I managed to step into a ¨pie¨, while we were all trying to catch our breath due to the elevation.

Soon it was time for more sugar cane alcohol and then Almuerzo (lunchtime) A straw mat was spread out onto the ground, topped with a table cloth and then finally the lunch was poured onto the top. My guess was that the utensils were used for our benefit only. Several different kinds of beans, shreds of carrots, strips of salty beef, rice, curried pototoes and ¨Cuy¨were served.
To be honest, I was not crazy about the ¨cuy¨which was fatty, with a thick skin left on, as well as having a strong animal flavor.






We were entertained with what sounded like off -tune music of a flute and drum. (reminded me of when I first listened to Balinese dissanant music. I hated it, but years later grew on me)

Later, the women took pride in showing us how to spin wool into yarn, grind wheat into flower, and with smoking herbs, gave us each a healing or cleansing in the indigenous manner.



Heating up and stirring the cheese....small money making project after being given a donation from Europe.


Finally we were encouraged to try on their clothes, while they laughed and giggled. Previously to this event, I thought that the indigenous women were chubby from their high starch diet, but I found out it was the heaviness, the pleats and thickness of the wool skirt.

Just as it was starting to feel cold again, it was time for more shots of alcohol.

Of course, they were happy to have us contribute to their foundation for the health and education of their children. The living environment was very basic, for me it would be harsh, considering the cold weather, the high altitude and isolation from services of the city. There certainly weren´t any toys, or comfortable furniture, or nice appliances....just the bare basics.